Quantcast
Channel: cianty's Tabletop Wargames Blog
Viewing all 107 articles
Browse latest View live

Review: More Wargame Terrain by Tony Harwood

$
0
0
Recently my copy of "More Wargame Terrain" arrived in the post. Let's take a look!

After the excellent first volume"Building Wargame Terrain" Tony Harwood has released the follow-up book: "More Wargame Terrain" with more articles on how to create top quality terrain for the tabletop.

From the Outside: Production Value

This perfect bound, full colour soft-cover book has a total of 118 pages from front to back. The layout and production is pretty much the same as the first book so nothing new to explain here.

The table of contents for More Wargame Terrain

Inner Values: Articles and Tutorials

There are eight articles that show a wide variety of techniques and tips: Creating and painting thatched roofs, Spanish canal roofs, woodwork, stonework and lots more. They work both as tutorials for recreation and as a source of inspiration of how to use leftover stuff as well as dedicated materials to create terrain.



My personal highlight is the last article of the Large Town House: This is the kind of house that I admire from the buildings Tony did for GrandManner.



"More Wargame Terrain" is the logical next step after "Building Wargame Terrain". The buildings and techniques become more complex. From scratch-building to painting tips there is something there for every wargamer interested in creating buildings for the tabletop. With my own scratch-built buildings awaiting me for my Port of Gierburg gaming board I am happy to have this book in my tool box.

For order information about the book, visit Tony Harwood's blog.


Update: Also check out João Sousa'sreview of the book!



The Port of Gierburg - Part 4: Dock Section II Ground Level WIP

$
0
0
After completing the first section of my Port of Gierburg gaming table it is time to start with the second module. This one will be a lot more difficult and a lot more exciting. Due to its complexity I will handle the (under)ground level first and then tend to the rest later.

Similar to the first module this one is based on a solid 5mm MDF board. Following my initial plans (see Part 1) it measures 45cm x 72cm.

The concept for the port modules with two dock sections encapsulating a water board


The core of the module is a big 6cm thick piece of styrofoam that was glued on the MDF board using white glue and then cut to shape.



Underneath the City

Something I absolutely wanted to do after seeing an impressive zombie board at this year's Tactica convention: Tunnels on the sides of the board. The idea is to make the underground accessible from the sides. This adds an additional level to the board which is great from a gaming perspective. It is also a very practical solution compared to undermining the entire board which would then require a lift-off street level.

The first dock section came to have a height of 7,5cm which now determines the height for all sections of the gaming board. Factoring in the neccessary bottom and top this allows for just enough space to include tunnels between 5cm and 6cm high.

The idea is to have the tunnels lead around the two outer edges of the board (bottom and right edge if you look at the illustration above). The tunnel along the "bottom" side leads to the harbour wall, where through a small secret crack in the wall it would then be possible for models to enter the docks. At the other end the tunnel would end at the "top" side with a door. Through that door it would be possible to connect future sections with similar tunnels. Somewhere in the middle of the long side I wanted to have the entrance to the tunnels. Again, a door would indicate where models "pop up" on the battlefield. Since the tunnels are only accessible from the sides and the tunnels are not very high, doors are a great way of creating spots where models can go deeper into the board without actually modelling it. How exactly this entrance would work out I will decide when I tackle the first floor of the dock section. For now I have to focus on the (under)ground and just create options for later. I did try to think of an ultimate masterplan for the entire board but I then decided not to try to deal with all the questions at once and instead focus on the beginning at start on that rather than thinking and getting nothing done.

Tunnel tiles for Mordheim
I chose to apply the same technique that I used a couple of years ago for building Tunnel tiles for the Border Town Burning supplement of Mordheim. I carved/cut/broke the tunnels out of the styrofoam board with a box cutter. Then I coated the surface with filling using a strong brush. I used the brush to get a smoother surface than I got before when merely using my fingers.

The tunnel carved into the styrofoam board

Applying the filling on the styrofoam

After the filling had dried completely I added sand to the ground of the tunnel: I first applied a mix of white glue and water to the ground, then sprinkled and rubbed the sand over it. I also placed a few small stones across the tunnels.




I made two simple doors from coffee stirring sticks and glued them in place with white glue.

Two scratch-built doors for the tunnels





Next, I glued another layer of 3mm MDF board on the styrofoam to get a sturdy ceiling. On top of that I put a 3mm sheet of Selitron. This provides a nice base for the final layer of hard plaster cobblestones from Vampisol that would come later. However, to get the Selitron height correctly at the edges I had to glue a few 1mm wood pieces on the MDF.

Then I cut four pieces of 1mm thin wooden board to shape so that they would cover the sides of the board, basically creating a kind of veneer.

Before finally doing the cobblestone layer I had to do the walls of the wharf...


The Wharf

The wharf is made from a piece of harbour wall by GrandManner which I had left from section I. The remaining wall was filled with flagstone boards from Vampisol. I cut the hard plaster boards to size with a slitting saw.

Hard plaster walls from Vampisol

At the top of the walls I made small indentations with a file. These would later hold small bits of wood that would serve as mounts to place one side of the pier on.

The walls are glued to the sides of the styrofoam

The last wall piece was filed so that it looks like there is a hole in wall. Through this hole the figures can leave and enter the tunnels during gameplay.

Finally I added capstones, again from Vampisol, so that this section ends up with the same height as the harbour wall piece. With a bit of plaster I filled the gaps around the pier mounts, smoothed out the transitions between the three plaster pieces and modelled the inside of the hole.



Cobblestones

I find this to be the most exciting part of all the work: Building the cobblestone streets. As I mentioned above, I used cobblestone tiles from Vampisol. The same stretcher bond pattern that was used on Dock Section I was applied along one side of this section to continue the street.


For the rest of the board I used the other style of cobblestones, the segmental arch pattern. I like this pattern a lot for creating places such as town squares and so found it very appropriate for the area around the main docks, which would later be full of cargo, busy lumpers and probably the dockside crane.


After all cobblestone pieces were glued on the board I used filler for any gaps as well as watered down PVA to glue sand in some of the gaps as well as across the board for variety.

The most important thing was to ensure that both board sections align properl

The Pier

The Pier is a big wooden structure that extends the wharf. It can be thought of as the counterpart to the scratch-built jetty of section I.

Mainly, the pier is made from my never-ending bag of coffee stirring sticks that I have used for all works of this type.



The pillars are made from a 8mm thick wooden stick. I needed them to match the looks of the GrandManner harbour walls. Using a large file I rub deep indentations into the wood to achieve similar exaggerated detail. Whether that actually worked out I will only know once they are painted.



Additional details include rope around the pillars made from special rope-style wire, and rivets made from a thin plastic rod.



And this is what it looks like:

The pier set up and awaiting paint

Dock section I and II placed together



Lastly: The Heavy Tip
During the building of all these boards I found it extremely useful to keep stacks of heavy books nearby. All materials tend to bend when you least expect it. I have started to leave the books on the styrofoam whenever possible to ensure they always dry in the correct position and even afterwards.


Coming next: Dock Section II Elevation WIP



Golden Tom 2014 - Tom's Boring Painting Competition 2014

$
0
0
Games Workshop may have dropped Mordheim, but the community is still well alive. And what better proof could there be than the announcement of Tom's Boring Painting Competition 2014 over at Tom's Boring Mordheim Forum.



From Tom's announcement:

Did someone say “Golden Tom”? YES! It is finally here again by popular demand! After 6 years, TBMF is (finally!) back with hosting the second Golden Tom Painting Competition!
And this time, we beefed it up with an amazing, REAL, PHYSICAL, 300g BRONZE CAST, MAHAGONY BASED trophy!

THIS is YOUR chance to compete once more in the only Mordheim themed painting competition in the world and take the amazing Golden Tom statue home (well… technically you are not taking it anywhere, we will send it to you by post)
So wet your paintbrush, get the sculpting putty out, shake the paint pots and DAZZLE us, because who knows when you will get that chance again… maybe in 6 years?


This time there is a very special prize for the winners: These awesome statues were sculpted by forum member Ben "floedebolle" and one will go to each of the top three places:




So head over to Tom's for the full rules and start painting!

Town Houses and Mansion from Tabletop World

$
0
0
Tabletop World released some very nice timber-framed fantasy houses over the last couple of months. After their latest release - an impressive mansion - it was time for my yearly order. As always this means another review of these new products on the blog.

There are few things in the hobby these days that excite me as much as when Tabletop World release a new building. And although I was quite critical with their Coaching Inn (specifically its size) that piece too is an absolutely beautiful eye-catcher on the battlefield once it is painted. So naturally I was very excited when Tabletop World showed a preview image on their website for their upcoming release. Between the announced release date and its final release date I was checking out their website daily to see if it was out already. Once the full gallery for the Mansion was up it were minutes until I placed my order, catching up on their latest products since the release of the Coaching Inn: Townhouse II, Townhouse III and the new Mansion. Let's take a closer look!

Townhouse III, II and the new Mansion next to each other


Townhouse II

Starting with Townhouse II the guys at Tabletop World tend to an aspect that is all too often neglected when producing buildings for the gaming table: What you actually need to fill the board is regular houses, ones that can form streets and alleyways. These buildings do not need to be extraordinary (though you sure do not want them to look boring, either): There are already enough taverns, blacksmith's forges and coaching inns out there to supply multiple towns. Townhouse II and III were desinged with that gamer's need in mind (note that the "Townhouse" building  - "Townhouse I" so to speak - is one of their older "stand-alone" buildings and not part of this new "range").

Townhouse II was the first building released since my criticism regarding the Coaching Inn's size. The first thing you will probably notice about the building is the balcony which gives it a nice unique touch. The rest is pretty much standard half-timbered house appearance. Of course, that is the challenge when you try to design houses which are meant to be "normal" - they still need to have something special about them as otherwise most customers will go with more exciting buildings instead. Because of that you have to give kudos to the guys for taking the risk of creating fewer centrepiece houses and accepting the challenge to create interesting normal houses.

When I unpacked this new building I was curious about two things. Firstly, how tall is it? I was actually positively suprised to see that it is taller than the Coaching Inn. Ultimately, all these 28mm buildings can only be approximations of properly sized buildings as otherwise your gaming table would consist of no more than four or five buildings (which no one could afford to spend the money and/or time on). I believe what is most important for these buildings to feel right, is that the ground floor has a sufficient height. Figures will be standing next to the walls and in front of the door and windows. That is what counts. The upper floors just needs to fit the rest but unless they have balconies you will not usually see figures next to the upper walls for scale so you can get away with a few less millimeters height. Of course this is different when the building can be accessed from the inside.

The gound floor of Townhouse II with 28mm figures in front

Note the slight difference in height between Townhouse II (left)
and the Coaching Inn (right)

Townhouse II from the side



When I first saw the photos on the Tabletop World website I was immediately wondering whether it would be possible to place miniatures on the balcony. For some reason this is not something that the creators of such houses always keep in mind. For me this gaming value is quite important, especially with a balcony where you will want to place marksmen during a game that make use of the position.

For years I have been using 25mm round bases for all my human figures. Fortunately, this is just small enough to fit on the balcony!

Inside of Townhouse II

25mm round bases fit on the balcony of Townhouse II

However, this first floor is not high enough for many average 28mm miniatures. So if your models are waving torches or pikes as the ones in my photos they will not be able to stand up inside the house. The balcony has a bit more space because of the balcony roof so that will work with most models. The topmost floor is not a problem because there is enough space under the roof.


Townhouse III

Townhouse III is a bit bigger and - at least to me - more visually appealing. I especially like the backside of this house: A big wall of timber-framed beauty that I find strangely impressive in its simplicity.

The stone staircase with the roofing is a nice touch and fulfillls a similar roles as the balcony of the previous Townhouse in that it makes the facade more interesting. To top it off there is additional detail in form of a little bench with a pumpkin and vase and a separate wheel.

Again, the most urgent question was about the height of the ground floor. And yet again, there is the same improvement as with Townhouse II.




Sadly, unlike the balcony of Townhouse II, the staircase is not wide enough for the 25mm bases of my figures. If your humans are placed on 20mm bases they will fit, though.

Unfortunately 25mm round bases are slightly too large
to fit on the staircase of Townhouse III


Mansion

Finally, the highlight of the range: the mighty mansion. This is truly a masterpiece. The dimensions are impressive, the architecture with the tower thingy is just beautiful. Personally, I think this is their best creation to date.

Size-wise the mansion fits right in with the two previous townhouses and will create a lovely city scene when set up with them on the table.




On the first floor normal 28mm figures will have a hard time standing up.

On the top floor figures can be placed without problems
because of the additional space from the roof



Summary

I am very happy with these new buildings from Tabletop World. I feel like they accepted the criticism of the Coaching Inn's low height and have now improved their new products in that regard. It is interesting to learn how a few millimeters on the ground floor can have such an impact on the overall impression of a building when there are figures standing next to it. Now, if the other floors were a bit taller too, they would be absolutely perfect. Nevertheless, these houses are the tallest buildings in my collection and look absolutely beautiful.



The new buildings with the painted Coaching Inn in between


I did not mention any of the standard criteria of a terrain review yet: material, casting quality, sturdiness, etc. I think by now I have written this so many times already - Tabletop World has the highest quality products I have come across in the terrain section. Their resin is wonderful, the casting quality is nearly flawless and I am still surprised everytime by the fact that there is no assembly required apart from a chimney and an occasional delicate piece (such as the staircase roofing of Townhouse III).

Now off to slapping some paint on these beauties!


Broom Binder House from Thomarillion

$
0
0
At this year's Hamburger Tactica show I bought the newly released Broom Binder House from Thomarillion.



Usually the buildings and terrain I collect for wargaming are made from resin. The buildings from Thomarillion (produced by Ziterdes), however, use a very different, unique material: a light-weight, dense hard foam. Ever since I first saw their products I have been both intrigued and sceptical, but never found a good reason to buy any of these products. That was until I saw the new release the Broom Binder House, at the Thomarillion booth at the Tactica. It is a bit bigger than what I have seen from them and I immediately thought it would fit perfectly with the Stronghold Terrain buildings, such as the Town house.


Material

The first thing you will notice is the weight. As someone who is used to handling resin and plaster terrain I find it very unusual to lift off such a light-weight piece. Of course, this is a good thing, though. Especially pieces cast in plaster are very heavy and when they break - they explode into a hundred bits. A piece of hardfoam does feel safer. On the other hand, if you accidentally hit this on the table edge or whatever then you still do end up with dents which may even be more difficult to repair than on conventional resin products. All in all, I find the hardfoam to be sufficiently sturdy, though.

After unpacking the house I encountered the most awkward thing about the foam: the feel. It felt like it was dusty/friable(?) - like there were lots of super tiny crumbs all over the surface. When you rub your finger across the surface it feels like tiny dusty crumbs come off but when you look at your fingertips - there is nothing. It was weird (in a negative way) but that turned to fascinating (in a positve way) after undercoating the entire piece, because now - with paint on it - the surface feels totally normal.

When you paint the model you will notice the biggest disadvantage of the hardfoam. Although it does hold lots of detail it still is only foam in the end. The surface is rougher than traditional resin casts with a number of air bubbles here and there. So the casting quality is definately lower than comparable resin products (especially the flawless Tabletop World products).

A large hole in the "wall plate" beam had to be filled with modelling putty


Detailing and Style

The appearance of the Broom Binder House immediately reminded me of the excellent buildings from Stronghold Terrain: beautiful timber-framed houses, suitable for historic and medieval fantasy settings alike (with no crazy symbolism à la Games Workshop such as cheesy skulls and spikes). Their styles are quite similar (e.g. in contrast to the very authentic and realistic timber-frame structures of Tony Harwood's creations for GrandManner).

Overall the house may not look very spectacular but it does have a few nice touches. Most obvious is the curvy roof which gives the building a lot of character despite its standard rectangular shape. What I also like is the wood beams that break up the stonework of the ground floor and make it look at lot more interesting.

On the other hand there are a couple of spots of sloppy workmanship on the model. You can see rather large bits of glue where the roof is fixed to the walls. It would have been nice, had these been cleaned up on the master model. On the painted model this is barely noticeable, though.

The last thing to mention is that the building has no accessible inside. Looking at the bottom you can see that the walls of the model are very thick. I assume it would not be possibleto produce buildings with modelled interior and thinner walls as they would probably break too easily.



Verdict

Although I am not entirely sold on the material I am quite happy with the building. I appreciate these types of modest medieval houses. Working with the hard foam was an interesting change from the usual resin. If you have not yet tried one of Thomarillion's buildings I recommend you try it.



The Finished Model

So, finally, here is the painted model - complete with Gierburg posters and ivy from miniNatur.








The Broom Binders House with a few
Pike & Shotte militia men from Warlord Games



Update March 3rd: The model is now available in the Thomarillion shop.


Weather Dice

$
0
0
Recently I ordered a couple of different dice. Among them was a set of six-sided 16mm Weather Dice, which I mostly bought out of curiosity. Now let's see what we can do with them.


Once I held these dice in my hands and rolled them for a few times I immediately felt the urge to come up with a way to put them to actual good use. With all the pirate gaming there must be uses for them!

Here is a table with the six different weather outcomes and some game system agnostic effects. The idea is to always roll two weather dice and apply both results. However, the sun will result in overall good weather, negating the other dice's effect. The "cloudy" symbol represents a simple "no effect".


Sun
The sun is shining and the weather is fine. Dot not apply any other weather effects from the other dice.
Clouds
The weather is slightly cloudy but still fine overall. No further effects.
Wind
Wind is blowing, making it difficult to aim with ranged weapons.
Rain
It is raining. Blackpowder weapons may not function and need to be reloaded.
Thunder
A thunder strikes a random target on the board.
Snow
Snow is falling, decreasing sight and limiting the models' movement.


For a properly piratical weather table I would probably change "Rain" to "Heavy Rain" and "Snow" to "Light Rain". This is where things really depend on the specific setting and system at hand.

What do you think?


Whatsup?

$
0
0
It's been a long time since my last post and indeed I did as little hobby activity as the lack of updates would make you believe. Nevertheless, as the year draws to a close I feel like a little looking back and ahead.

The Port of Gierburg board is still a big work-in-progress. I find it hard to decide on how to proceed with the intended upper level and I really need to make up my mind and just go with something.

The British Unrated Cutter
from Games of War
In October/November, Games of War secretly released a new ship: A British Unrated Cutter. I immediately purchased the ship as their quality has always been absolutely top-notch and I don't want to again miss the oportunity - like their Sea Prince, which went out of production before I made sure to get one. What is funny is that I actually previewed their work-in-progress ships back in 2012(!) on this very blog (under the tag line "coming soon" too). How time flies...
Anyway, if you are only slightly into pirate gaming you should absolutely pick up their products. The cutter is a very very nice ship with superb quality once again. I shall do a review some time soon. In fact, the ship is already primed and it shouldn't be too hard to paint. Probably a good way to get back into the hobby.

The huge stunner last month was the release of the gigantic Town Gate by Tabletop World. This thing looks mind-blowing. Fortunately they also made the Guard Tower available again. My order is on its way and I can't wait to see these two pieces in the flesh.
The Town Gate from Tabletop World

Then I recently backed the Kraken Mat kickstarter because of their Cobblestone City mat. Usually I am not fan of gaming mats but their unique approach to producing the designs won me over. They actually build the terrain and then photograph it and only make final touch-ups in Photoshop. This gives the mats a very realistic look - realistic in the sense of wargaming terrain, of course. This will make it blend well with the actual terrain pieces on top of it. So that's the theory. I really can't wait to get mine. Hopefully it will be a great alternative to my never-ending Gierburg board so that I have a great board for setting up my finished buildings.

The Cobblestone City mat from the Kraken Mat kickstarter


So lots of toys to draw me back into modelling and painting. Also, I already look forward to next year's Tactica convention at the end of February. The visit always gives me a huge motivation boost to finish some projects.

I also heard that Games Workshop intends to resurrect the Specialist Games section. Will this mean an eventual return of Mordheim in some way? This is definately something that would spark my interest - even it were in the weird Age of Sigmar setting. Though I hear that all the (attention, pun incoming!) cool kids  are playing Frostgrave these days. Hopefully there will be a demo game at the Tactica to get an idea of the rules. After all, I was playing Mordheim in the snow already years ago.


Porcelain (tooth)brush stand

$
0
0
This is a little thing I wanted to share: A small toothbrush stand.

The Porcelain Toothbrush Stand
from MUJI
After a couple of months pause I recently got back into painting. And I finally got around to see how this little piece worked out... A few months ago my girl-friend dragged me into a MUJI store (because they seem to have very good pens). Even when on a hobby break I'm always on the look-out for things to put to use in the hobby. When I saw these small porcelain toothbrush stands I immediately thought that they will probably work well for holding brushes. It was also cheap enough to give it a try.

So, short and sweet: Yes, it does work well and I love it! The stand can easily hold a number of brushes (especially the thin ones used for wargaming/tabletop/modeling). What I like about this solution is that the stand is such a small elegant piece and the brushes are perfectly accessible (in contrast to the usual bulky brush stands). When I am working on a certain piece I usually keep using the same 4 to 8 brushes and they all fit into the stand. A great addition to my workbench, well worth the under 3€.




Tavern from Stronghold Terrain

$
0
0
The Tavern by Stronghold-Terrainis the latest addition to my collection of 28mm houses. Let's take a look!

The contents of the Tavern kit
I already painted up a couple of buildings from Stronghold-Terrain's range of medieval terrain: the Townhouse, the Guild House and the now out of production Facades. The Tavern now is the last building from their range (except for the Stables, which I am not interested in for now).

Like their other houses the majority of the pieces is made from hard plaster, except for the roof, the base and a few extra bits, which are all cast from resin.


The entire piece put together


The tavern has a quite nice design with the steps and raised stonework. Especially the new roof makes the entire piece a lot more impressive (they used to have a more simple version for the roof).

As usual the quality of the cast was very good. I did use a bit of putty to fill in the gaps around the large window piece and the roof.


To allow for some interior gameplay I chose to install a floor inside the building. After glueing the walls together, I added some wood strips as support for a balsa floor.




There is not much to say about the painting process that has not been said already. This piece was quite similar to the recent Broom Binder's House from Thomarillion. In fact, I like to place these two houses close to each other on the gaming table because they fit together quite nicely.





Note that I did not paint up the base as I do not intend to use it. I always appreciate buildings that do not come attached to any kind of base. My Gierburg table will mostly be covered with cobblestones so the buildings integrate best if they simply have their stonework at the bottom of all walls with no earth/sand/mud area around it.




Using SketchUp for Gaming Board Building

$
0
0
The free 3D modeling software SketchUp is a great tool for planning tabletop wargame boards and I have started to use it for my own projects.

I had a brief look at SketchUp years ago when it first became popular after being acquired by Google. Then, I totally forgot about it until I read a recent blog post by Clarence Harrison over at Quindia Studios. He is building a new game board and uses SketchUp for the early layout work. This seemed super useful and as I have been somewhat stuck with my own gaming board - the Port of Gierburg -  because I am rather clueless as to how to continue with the layout and set-up of buildings and everything, I decided to reproduce my current board in SketchUp. This would give me a good basis to start experimenting with different configurations of buildings, walls and levels.

Workflow and Asset Structure

After a bit of fiddling I quickly settled with a "workflow" and structure for my assets:

  1. Individual terrain pieces such as buildings, board sections, etc. are created and saved in separate files.
  2. Another file is created for the entire gaming board. This is where everything comes together as the individual assets are imported as components.

I found this to be the easiest way of handling things as it allows me to focus on individual pieces and later combine them. This is not so important for the board sections, but if I ever end up with buildings, barricades and other items which are also "movable" in reality, I can try out things in virtual reality. Similar to how you would experiment with different furniture configurations of a room.

The Port of Gierburg in SketchUp

For my Gierburg gaming board this meant that I created the following three pieces (corresponding to their real-life pendants):

The digital version of Dock Section I

The digital version of the current state of Dock Section II

The dock sections put together


To get a better sense of scale I also made two quick sketches of the Town House and Tavern models from Stronghold Terrain. They are particularly well suited because of their simple architectural structure. I only did very rough versions of the buildings without detailed timber-frames, windows, etc. I might spend more time on such details if I am ever in the mood, but for now these models will definitely suffice.

Sketch of the Town House from Stronghold Terrain
Another view of the Town House

Sketch of the Tavern from Stronghold Terrain

The current board with the two houses


Now I have a great basis to try out different things for Dock Section II. I have a couple of ideas and visualizing them like this will hopefully help me make a decision so I can finally continue working on the board. Last but not least, this is also a great way of working on my game board when I am not in the mood or don't have the time to do actual modeling or painting work, yet still want to be a bit productive.


Cobblestone Gaming Mat from UrbanMatZ

$
0
0
UrbanMatZ produces gaming mats for the tabletop. When I saw the cobblestone mat I immediately ordered one.

Until quite recently I had never even considered using gaming mats. I am quite picky when it comes to terrain and building a gaming board. My personal gaming board project, the Port of Gierburg, has been going on for many years and I am willing to take the time, effort and costs that are neccessary to make it as perfect as I possibly can - with little to no tolerance for making compromises. A flat illustrated mat for a surface definately does not fit into this concept.

The Cobblestone City design
from Kraken Mat (4' x 4')
This was until November last year, when I saw the Kraken Mat kickstarter which, among many different designs, featured a cobblestone pattern. Before that I had never seen a cobblestone mat and even though I wasn't particularly interested in getting one I did find it surprising that there weren't any around. From fantasy settings such as Mordheim or Frostgrave to World War II settings you would think there is enough demand to justify such products. The story and photos of the Kraken Mat had me curious enough to give it a try. That's when I first overcame my inhibitions.

As of today, I am exictedly waiting for the Kraken Mat to arrive (which is currently planned for May I believe). However, although the Kraken Mat looks absolutely beautiful from what I can see I still had one concern: With all the streets and pavements printed on the mat you are quite restricted when it comes to placing terrain features such as buildings, barricades, etc. To allow for all kinds of scenarios with different terrain setups it makes a lot of sense to have a "general purpose" mat - a full cobblestone pattern with no other features that restrict the placement of terrain.

So I was pleasantly suprised to see exactly this in a comment in the Mordheim Facebook group: the Cobblestone Battlefield mat from UrbanMatZ. I thought "I already got one, might as well try this one too", and ordered the 4' x 4' version.

The Cobblestone Battlefield mat from UrbanMatZ

Close-up on the details


The design consists of very nice irregular cobblestones. There is dirt, grass, blood stains and what I believe are manhole covers, all of which make the design more interesting. I would have actually preferred that there was no blood since I find that to be better suited for fantasy settings whereas my games are more on the historical side. Funny enough, such a blood-less version is available since yesterday.  So a bit of bad timing for me but very cool overall for all other potential customers.

I do not want to go too far into detail with reviewing this. There are a lot of (obviously positive) video reviews on the UrbanMatZ website and I will simply say that I concur: This is a really great product. I was a bit worried that the surface may be a bit problematic since this is mousepad material and I could see the fibre texture in the close-ups in some of the video reviews. But during normal usage you don't notice this - you have to get very close to the mat to see the fibre surface so I don't find this to be a problem at all.

We actually ran a game on the new mat just yesterday and it was great. The surface is soft and smooth (if you know mousepads, then you know this). This is perfect for moving miniatures and placing buildings. Before, the models regularly caused little scratches on my IKEA table. Moving figures across these mats feels a lot safer. Also rolling dice on the mat is a pleasure as the mat deadens the sound.

A little setup to give an impression of the gaming mat in action:
Highwaymen and Thief-catchers fight it out in the city


So all in all, does this gaming mat replace a properly modelled 3D gaming table? Of course not! But as my "proper" gaming table will turn out similarly restrictive in terms of terrain placement as the Kraken Mat I am super happy to add this piece to my gaming inventory. While my scratch-built table will be the obvious pick for "flagship" scenarios and photo-taking this gaming mat will be the choice when variety is needed. And because of its flexible design I believe it will actually see more play than my "main" gaming board. For only 45 EUR and a super nice carrying bag included I think this is not too bad a deal.


Ocean and Cobblestone Gaming Mat from Deep-Cut Studio

$
0
0
Two new gaming mats have arrived for my collection: The ocean mat and cobblestone mat from Deep-Cut Studio.

After my great experience with the cobblestone gaming mat from UrbanMatZ I was looking for an appropriate sea mat for playing piratey ship battles. I found a suitable mat design from Deep-Cut Studio. At that time their mats were available only in two versions: PVC and cloth. I hadn't really seen any good feedback on those materials and I was very happy with the "mousepad material" which I got to know from UrbanMatZ. Just recently Deep-Cut Studio (DCS) made their mats available again in that version as well so I gave them a try. While I was ordering the Ocean mat I thought why not save on the shipping costs and try their cobblestone mat as well?

Unlike the UrbanMatZ mats, DCS mats do not come with a free carrying bag. If you already have one this is no big deal as you rarely need to carry many mats around. For storing the original package is sufficient enough, if not nearly as nice as a proper bag, of course.

The first thing I noticed is that the DCS mats have sharp corners where UrbanMatZ has rounded corners (true mousepad style!). I think I do prefer sharp corners although it doesn't matter much to me.

Another thing I noticed later on is the smell: The DCS mat smell a bit of rubber. It didn't last long, though - after a few days it was gone. But I didn't notice this with the UrbanMatZ mat.


The Ocean Mat

Detail image of the Ocean mat from
the Deep-Cut Studio website
I chose the large 6' x 4' version because - well - ships! If you plan on running 28mm ship battles you better go with the largest option.

Surprisingly, the design of the actual mat appears somewhat different to what you expect from the pictures on their website. The pictures show an uneven curly surface. Of course, I am not talking about the physical surface here - I mean the graphic design. The actual mat is more like a flat blue surface with the occasional white foam. The curly design is just missing (as if you had hidden a layer in Photoshop). Here is a photo to show the difference:

Detail of the Ocean mat from Deep-Cut Studio

I have to say that the design looks a bit better on photos than in reality, yet is still nice enough.

The different design aside, the mat is quite nice. The production quality is high and I look forward to playing my first ship battles on the mat. I believe gaming mats like these are the perfect solution for representing water surface. The material is perfect for moving ships about as the models slide smoothly across the board.




The Cobblestone Mat

I ordered this 4' x 4' cobblestone mat as a kind of bonus. I was already quite pleased with the UrbanMatZ mat but I wanted to have a comparison (and I was too impatient to wait for the Kraken Mat that would come sometime in May).
When I rolled out the cobblestone mat I was quite pleasantly suprised. The design is very nice. The details are sharper than those of the UrbanMatZ mat. The cobblestones are nicely small, very well fitting for 28mm scale. I also like the colours: The UrbanMatZ mat is kind of blueish while the DCS mat has a more "normal" brownish grey tone and fits my buildings much better.

A scenic shot with some buildings and highwaymen

A comparison between the UrbanMatZ cobblestone city mat and
the cobblestone mat from Deep-Cut Studio

The mats from UrbanMatZ and Deep-Cut Studio and their backs


All in all, I can definately recommend the mousepad version mats from Deep-Cut Studio. Of course, the different design vary a lot and it is very subjective whether you like them or not. At least the cobblestone mat I find absolutely excellent.



Tactica 2016

$
0
0
The annual Tactica tabletop convention took place on February 27-28 in Hamburg. As in the previous years before I went on Saturday and had a great time.

Again lots of great tables and participation games could be enjoyed. A table that particularly impressed me was this Frostgrave board. What I like about it is that it contains many of the Tabletop World buildings that I also have except that these were modified to turn them into ruins. Very cool!



Probably the most impressive table was this 16th/17th century Japanese castle by Frank. You can read more about it on his blog here (and part 2 and part 3).




Another highlight was this board from Freebooter Miniatures to promote their rules for playing with ships. I am already used to Freebooter bringing very cool gaming boards to Tactica but I liked this one especially because it is so unusual and effective despite its relative simplicity.



My 'preview highlight' of the show were these miniatures for a field bakery at the Black Hussar Miniatures booth. These Prussians from the Seven Years' War range are very cool looking unique civilians and I can very well imagine using them for my pirate games. They will be released in about a month and made available as several packs.





Another teaser was this crane at the Thomarillion booth. It would be a great alternative for my current crane and I don't think you can have too many cranes around the docks.



The Game

We managed to play one participation game of Jugula. My friend Jens was very interested in these gladiator rules from Studio Tomahawk so we took the opportunity to learn more about the game. It was indeed a quite enjoyable game and I can see how you can have a lot of fun mastering all the tactical possibilities. It would make for a very nice side project as you need very few miniatures and you can can build a great arena table if you like.




Treasure Hunter

I had a very specific shopping list this year. Firstly, I wanted to stack up on my pirate figures collection. In my opinion, Foundry still has the best range of pirates (aside from Black Scorpion, but the two don't mix that well). In addition, I chose to go with North Star Figure's Blackbeard model as a captain for this new crew. It really is a shame that their sets are so expensive (23 GBP for 8 models, compare with 12 GBP for Foundry's sets of also 8 models)



Then I picked up the rulebooks for Frostgrave and En Garde!. With Frostgrave being all the craze these days I wanted to take a closer look at the rules. I might even end up making a small warband. Or I guess I could use my existing gang of gypsies.



I have been a big fan of wagons and coaches since I first used a Stage Coach in Mordheim. So when I saw the coach from Schilling Figuren it was another immediate must-have. I already have a lot of unpainted wagons and coaches from West Wind's Empire of the Dead: Requiem kickstarter and the Berlin Carriage from Warlord Games but I just had to add this to the lot.



Finally, my most important haul: Elmar Fischer aka Elladan of Stronghold Terrain made these custom casts of his beautiful building fronts for me. I talked to him about my Port of Gierburg project and how I plan to have a huge facade on one side. He was so amazingly helpful to make these pieces from his out-of-production houses and fronts so that I can build a big facade from them.




In conclusion, the Tactica has been another fantastic event. I am especially happy about my purchases and super grateful for Elmar's help and support. I already look forward to next year.



Tabletop World Gallery

$
0
0
Tabletop World produces some of the best terrain pieces in the market. This post is dedicated to the inspiring creations people come up with using their products.


Diorama from the Tabletop World Painting Competition 2016 announcement


I have been a fan of Tabletop World and their buildings from their early days and keep a gallery of pictures of their buildings since their first pieces went out of production. I have spent the last weeks' hobby time painting up their huge mansion building. This made me search the internet a bit for other people's versions of the mansion and I came across some incredible works.

Now Tabletop World have posted the entries for their annual painting competition on their Facebook page and again I was stunned by the incredible projects people make using these buildings. It really seems that their buildings bring out the best in some painters and make them create some of the very best terrain pieces and dioramas I have every seen. Since I like to keep things in one place I decided to create a Pinterest gallery where I can curate all these awesome works and return for inspiration.

Folge Christians Pinnwand „Tabletop World Gallery“ auf Pinterest.

Here are my personal favourites of this year's competition:


Converted building by Simone Pohlenz

Converted building by Simone Pohlenz


Diorama by David Rumeau

Window detail of David Rumeau's diorama
Diorama by Tim Ward

Diorama by Tim Ward

Diorama by Patrice Vincent


Check out all the entries for the 2016 painting competition on Tabletop World's Facebook page and vote for (aka like) the ones you like best.


The Mansion from Tabletop World

$
0
0
More than a year after ordering the impressive Mansion from Tabletop World I finally managed to finish painting the beautiful building.



As I described in my initial review the Mansion from Tabletop World is a highly impressive piece of terrain. The logical consequence is that it takes a lot of effort to paint this massive building. Add my habit of procrastination to that and you have a long-term project. Well, in fact, it wasn't that bad. I think I began painting the mansion in December last year. Since I only get to have any hobby time at the weekends and I spent a couple of those this year playtesting my pirate skirmish rules I did quite ok this time.

Let me say it again: the Mansion is great. The term centre-piece has been used a lot for various buildings but this one truly is. It towers over the other houses and puts the coaching inn to shame. When I began painting I was considering using a bolder colour scheme than usual. Maybe a red wall? Or at least red or green window frames? I had a look at other people's work on the model. You can find my collection of people's Tabletop World buildings on Pinterest. In the end, I went with a rather conservative approach that makes it look like most of my other half-timbered houses.








The Wachau Meeting House from GrandManner

$
0
0
The Wachau Meeting House from GrandManner is finally painted up and ready for the battlefield.

As I began to write this post I looked up my review of the buildings from GrandManner, which I wrote shortly after I received the order. This was almost four years ago! My painting backlog is truly horrible - and I have even older pieces still in the pipeline. But let's not digress...

I previewed a work-in-progress photo of the Meeting House when I published my review of Tony Harwood's excellent book Building Wargame Terrain as this model was designed by him. For some reason it took me until just recently to finish painting the house. Now please don't mistake this for me not liking the model. To the contrary: I think it is absolutely beautiful. The textures and details are superb. In fact, I think Tony has created the best designed models in the market. The are only topped by the outstanding casting quality, material and complexity of Tabletop World's pieces. But when we talk about the details, textures and authenticity, I believe these are the very best. I like how the models strive for historic accuracy instead of making use of the artistic licence you get with Fantasy models.


One thing I really don't like about war-game house is when they come with bases attached to them. My games are mostly set inside of a city (think Mordheim/Frostgrave) and I want to put my buildings on a cobblestone gaming mat or my cobblestone-clad Gierburg board. The Meeting House gets away with its base because it is not a mere elevation with earth and sand but it is almost its own sideway. This gives the house a lot of additional character and immediately turns the finished piece into a little diorama.





I'm quite happy with how the building turned out and I am definately motivated to paint up my remaining GrandManner buildings now. However, before I do that I should paint a piece that has been waiting even longer (one word: ruin).

Cobblestone Gaming Mat from Kraken Wargames

$
0
0
At the end of 2015 I backed the Kraken Mats kickstarter thanks to a convincing unboxing video over at Beast of War. Today the mat has arrived - does it hold up to my expectations?

The Kraken Wargaming mats are now available from FantasyWelt and today I received my version of the 4 x 4 Cobblestone City mat. First off, some images of the design:

The Cobblestone City mat image from the Kraken Mat kickstarter


The Cobblestone City mat in 4 x 4
The Cobblestone City mat in 4 x 6

So this is what the mat looks like in the flesh:



The mat is made from the usual "mouse pad material" that is popular for gaming mats these days. It provides a very smooth surface where terrain and miniatures can easily be moved across and it has the rubber backside that makes it stick to the table.


I see Your True Colours

What you can hardly tell from the photos is that the mat has quite a blue cast. From the original images you would believe the design to be dominated by grey and brown colours but this is not the case. This struck me immediately when I unpacked the mat and it didn't look any more convincing when the mat was laid out.

I already found the cobblestone mat from UrbanMatz to be a bit bluish. However, it is not that bad with the UrbanMatz mat because thir cobblestones are much smaller (resulting in less "blue" surface overall) and it has a lot of dirt and other stuff in its design which adds others colours, green and even red from blood stains, giving it a nice dark gritty look.

Comparison of the cobblestone mats from UrbanMatz (left),
Deep-Cut Studio (center) and Kraken (right)

The tone becomes very obvious when the mat is placed next to the cobblestone mat from Deep-Cut Studio. You can also get an idea when you compare the colours of the stonework on my buildings to the colour of the mat.



Cobblestonerocks Pattern

What I actually find much more problematic than the colour is the design of the stones. Those stones are HUGE. Everything looks way too big for 28mm figures. The cobblestones do not fit at all with the 25mm cobblestone bases from Fenris that I use on my figures or the cobblestone plaster sheets from Vampisol that I use on my terrain. They are sized more like flagstones, while the flagstones on the mat are just... well, really huge.

I find the design especially wrong when there are buildings on top
Another comparison with the more delicate design from Deep-Cut Studio

I think a big part of what makes this design look so wrong is the shadows. All these stones - especially the cobblestones - have very "deep" shadows. When you look at a figure standing next to them it appears that there is enough space between the individual stones for figures to put their feet in these gaps. And these gaps are not only wide, they are also deep. If this terrain where true people would constantly trip, stumble and fall when walking the streets. If you ever found the details of Tabletop World's stonework to be too exaggerated for 28mm scale then you will hate this design.

I also don't think it is a good idea to go too wild with details on a gaming mat. After all it is still a flat image, no actual terrain. The reason why the UrbanMatz and Deep-Cut Studio mats work for me is that they only provide a subtle "background" to play on. If you stress certain details on a mat like rocks or tree stumps, etc. it becomes obvious that it's just a flat mat and breaks the immersion. I want the mats to replace the flat physical board. Any actual terrain pieces must still be placed on top in all their 3D glory.

What I find particularly astounding is that Kraken prided themselves with the excellent details of their mats and attributed this to their unique method of actually building real physical boards that were then later photographed and edited. I can hardly believe that the basis for this design was an actual proper looking physical game board. Or maybe the image was increased so much that the scale became more like 48mm?


All in all, the mat is a big disappointment for me. This is also a shame, because the guys seem to be very cool and ambitious with their mats. The communication throughout the kickstarter was absolutely excellent. I am sure that the other designs work a lot better and my grief is only related to this specific pattern.

What remains, is that Kraken convinced me that there can be great cobblestone mats (when I saw the kickstarter) and it pushed me to try the UrbanMatz and Deep-Cust Studio mats before the Kraken one even arrived. So ironically due to Kraken I am now gaming a lot with the Deep-Cut Studio mat after having dismissed the concept of gaming mats for a long time. So today marks the unexpected end of my quest for a great cobblestone mat and for that I still thank Kraken.


Dead Man's Hand - German Edition from Stronghold-Terrain

$
0
0
Stronghold-Terrain have released the German edition of the Wild West skirmish game Dead Man's Hand and I take a look at the rulebook.



The Wild West skirmish game Dead Man's Hand was originally released by Great Escape Games and later on translated into French by Studio Tomahawk. Now Stronghold-Terrain have released a German version of the rulebook which includes the latest updates and optional rules introduced by Studio Tomahawk.


One of the many beautiful photos you can find in the German version of The Legend of Dead Man's Hand
starring the exclusive "Buddy" and "Nobody" miniatures

The 96-page hardcover book is fantastically produced and chock-full of beautiful photos. It is worth purchasing for the eye candy alone. It comes with a paper reference sheet and a sheet for markers, both of which can be downloaded from the Stronghold-Terrain website as well (somewhat hidden, though, on their blog).

Because I preordered the book from Stronghold I received the "Nobody" figure for free. In addition, Nobody's companion "Buddy" was also included as a little apology for the book being late (due to a delay in production).

I did not know the Dead Man's Hand game before so the rules were a very interesting read. I was actually suprised to find reading the rules this engaging. There are many aspects about the rules that I like a lot. The rules appear to be very fast-paced and capture the feeling of quick gun-slinging perfectly. You need very small gangs of no more than 10 models - often much less. As shown below in the image from the rulebook you play on a 3'x3' gaming board and need only a few buildings. So for a rather small committment to the setting you get the full Wild West experience. I was also very impressed by how great the laser-cut buildings from 4Ground look in the book. With this few figures and houses needed how could you resist giving this game a try?

Sample setup of Dead Man's Hand district one

What I liked most about the rules (granted, after the first read-through) was the campaign system and the way scenarios are connected and played. Dead Man's Hand provides some very detailed rules for playing campaigns - an aspect of skirmish gaming that is often shamefully neglected, or - if it is present - executed rather dull and uninspired. Not so in this game. There are so called Episodes that tell a story over three connected scenarios. These take place in one of four different districts of the city, each with its own terrain setup and random happenings. Furthermore, when playing a full campaign you try to build a career in the ragged city and take on different jobs. This looks all very very promising. As if this wasn't enough already, there is a scenario generator for creating random scenarios with lots of different and interesting aspects.

So, all-in-all, I am very happy that I bought this book. It is a great gallery of Wild West wargaming photos and the rules appear to be great fun. We'll see if I can resist the urge to buy an appropriate 3x3 gaming mat and a few laser-cut buildings from 4Ground (or Sarissa Precision who also make nice buildings and a cool looking Wild West train) so I can build my own version of Dead Man's Hand and see if my gang can make it there.


The Port of Gierburg - Part 5: Dock Section II Ground Level Painted

$
0
0
In the previous installment of my Port of Gierburg project I described how I built the base board for my dock section. Now that part is finally finished.

Section I, the Water board and Section II set up together


Wow, time sure flies. And, wow, am I good at procrastinating. I posted part 4 of my Port of Gierburg project log in September 2014! I really had a tough time deciding how to continue with this part of my board. I have made some progress since then and decided that the other buildings and raised level section will be a single removable piece. This meant that I could move on and just paint the board section as it was.


I used black Aero Design spray colour for base-coating the board as it can be used on styrofoam and similar materials without melting them. I have used it before on my Water Board.


Cobblestones

The important part was having the colours of the cobblestones match those of Dock Section I. I did not fully succeed with that but it is hard to tell. It always suprises me how stonework comes out differently every time even though I use the same paints and techniques. I am still quite happy with the result.

Close-up of the dirty streets around the port of Gierburg

The Jetty

The scratch-built jetty was fun to paint. I always enjoy painting large areas of wood like this as it is mostly dry-brushing and then some details like green for weathering and some rust around the bolts.

The jetty

The Tunnel

The underground tunnel is probably the highlight of this board section which is otherwise rather unspectacular without the elevated part. The tunnel is accessible from the edges of the board so that miniatures can be moved. It can later be entered from the warehouse - models will then be placed in front of the door in the tunnel. Another door in the corner will (probably) lead to another tunnel in the adjacent board section (which is not yet planned). Finally, at the other end of the tunnel, models can get to the jetty. I think of this as a secret tunnel that are used by smugglers to load and unload their illicit cargo.

The entrance to the secret tunnel underneath the jetty

The tunnel is accessible from the edges of the board

One end can be entered from underneath the jetty

The tunnel runs around the two outer edges of the gaming board

On the longer edge, there is a door that will lead up to the ground level

On the other end, the tunnel leads to a door which can later take the figures either
to an adjacent board's tunnel or inside of a house above - depending on the set-up


With the main section being done, I need to focus on the buildings and elevated module that comes on top of it. I have a rather good idea by now so it is really just a matter of pulling through. Seeing this part painted is a great motivation boost so I am positive that the next update will not take as long as this one. We'll see...


Update (July, 26): For some "in action" shots of pirates raiding the Port of Gierbug, check out this post.



Pirates at the Port of Gierburg

$
0
0
After finishing the basic section of the Port of Gierburg gaming board, I thought it would be a good opportunity to set up a little diorama on the new board. It is also a good opportunity to finally present my pirate crew painted by Simon Bradley a bit earlier this year. The crew is led by infamous Captain Blackbeard and used for my pirates game Dogs Ahoy. Enjoy!

Blackbeard's crew terrorizes the port



Blackbeard and his quartermaster are from North Star Military Figures'On the Seven Seas range. The majority of the models is from Foundry's Pirates And Swashbucklers range with the exception of one Crusader Miniatures pirate (the other two from the set were painted by Simon before). As usual, the cobblestone bases are from Fenris.





Here are some shots of the pirates roaming the streets around the Port of Gierburg:



Smugglers hide in the tunnel underneath the town


Lastly, photos of the crew aboard the "Fly", a lovely model of an unrated British cutter from Games of War. I will post a proper review of the ship soon so here are two sneaky peaky previews:


Ship battle between Blackbeard's crew and Redbeard's Sea Dogs



Viewing all 107 articles
Browse latest View live